User manual DEWALT DW384

[. . . ] When tool is used outdoors, use only extension cords intended for use outdoors and so marked. Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended function. Check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced by an authorized service center unless otherwise indicated elsewhere in this instruction manual. [. . . ] Guide along the penciled cutting line so that the kerf falls into the waste or surplus material. Note that the left side is 5 1/2" between the left side of the blade and the left edge of the shoe (standard 6x lumber). SHOE ALIGNMENT Your saw has been set at the factory for accurate vertical cuts (a 90 degree angle between the bottom of the shoe (M) and the blade). The edge of the shoe has also been set parallel to the blade so that it will not bind when using an edge guide. If the saw should ever need adjustment, it may be done as follows: ADJUSTING FOR 90° CUTS (FIG. Loosen the hex nut (N) and move the adjustment screw (O) so that the shoe will stop at the proper angle as shown in Figure 11. It may be necessary to adjust the quadrant angle pointer to line up on "O" after shoe has been adjusted. Loosen the hex nut (N) shown in Figure 10 and then turn the adjustment screw (O) in or out as needed to adjust for parallelism. Adjust the shoe until it is parallel to the blade by measuring from the edge of the shoe to the blade, front & rear. You can measure from the outside edge of the blade to the shoe as shown in Figure 8 or from the inner edge of the blade to the wider part of the shoe. When the shoe and blade are parallel, hold the adjusting screw in place and tighten the hex nut firmly. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on the marked line) can cause blade twist. Extended reach or operating saw with poor body control (out of balance), can result in twisting the blade. Changing hand grip or body position while cutting can result in blade twist. Backing unit up to clear blade can lead to twist if not done carefully. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with preservatives or anti-rot chemicals) 5. uSE OF DULL OR DIRTY BLADES Dull or dirty blades cause increased loading of the saw. To compensate, an operator will usually push harder which further loads the unit and promotes twisting of the blade in the kerf. Worn blades may also have reduced body clearance which increases the chance of binding and increased loading. LIFTING THE SAW WHEN MAKING BEVEL CUTS Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper cutting techniques - especially guidance of the saw. RESTARTING A CUT WITH THE BLADE TEETH JAMMED AGAINST THE MATERIAL The saw should be brought up to full operating speed before starting a cut or restarting a cut after the unit has been stopped with the blade in the kerf. Any other conditions which could result in pinching, binding, twisting, or misalignment of the blade could cause kickback. [. . . ] Hardness and toughness can vary even in the same piece of material, and knotty or damp sections can put a heavy load on the saw. When this happens, push the saw more slowly, but hard enough to keep it working without much decrease in speed. Forcing the saw can cause rough cuts, inaccuracy, kickback and over-heating of the motor. Should your cut begin to go off the line, don't try to force it back on. [. . . ]